Marcel Winatschek

Good Fat

I know exactly what’s going to kill me eventually: bacon. Good, fatty bacon. I could put it on everything or in everything or with everything—sandwich, pizza, pasta, doesn’t matter as long as it smells and tastes like bacon. Crispy strips, fried or grilled with eggs, yeah that’s an American or English breakfast thing, but I’d eat it any time of day. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, between meals.

Speck’s been part of German cooking forever. In old farmhouses they’d have salt barrels for curing meat. Back when meat wasn’t something you ate every day, the day they slaughtered a pig was a celebration. They had to process the blood and organs fast before they went bad. The pieces for speck got salted, smoked briefly, then hung up dry and airy. After slaughter they’d throw a feast—neighbors, family, everyone came over. And of course there was really good speck.

But how do you actually know the difference between good bacon and garbage? The fat is the first thing. It should taste like smoke and salt, not like a chemical factory. Good bacon smells rich when you cook it, fills the kitchen with something real. Cheap stuff is mostly air and water—it shrinks to nothing in the pan and tastes like nothing. The color matters too. Even thickness. The meat-to-fat ratio. These aren’t mysteries once you’ve tasted both.

I’ve ended up at places that take it seriously, cure their own, smoke it properly, and it’s a different food entirely. Worth the money, worth the ritual of a proper breakfast with coffee and time. That’s probably the thing—good bacon asks you to slow down, even if it’s just for twenty minutes while you sit with eggs and toast. Cheap bacon asks you to get in and get out.

I’m not saying I always make the right choice. Half the time I’d probably eat whatever’s in the fridge. But when I do get the good stuff, it’s the kind of thing that makes the day better, and I don’t feel like I’m poisoning myself in the process.