Marcel Winatschek

The Donut That Doesn’t Apologize

At some point in 2013, somewhere on the internet, someone looked at a warm donut and thought: this should be a burger. Not a burger as performance art, but a burger in the structural sense—split down the middle, dressed, assembled with the same logic as something that would contain meat. The filling: Nutella spread thick enough to mean it, passion fruit jam, sliced strawberries, kiwi.

It’s almost admirably uninterested in pretending to be anything other than what it is. No attempt at balance, no protein to justify the sugar. The fruit is there, yes—and whoever invented this apparently felt good about the fruit—but everyone involved knew those kiwi slices weren’t doing nutritional work. They were decoration. Condiments in a dessert structure that had borrowed a savory format to give itself permission to be indulgent without apology.

Probably it tastes good for about four bites and then you want water and a lie-down. But I respect the commitment.