Marcel Winatschek

The Hunger Stream

Someone in Seoul is eating two whole pizzas on camera right now, and thousands of people are watching. Not for tips, not to learn a recipe—just watching. Silently eating their own lonely dinners while a performer called The Diva demolishes an impossible amount of carbohydrates and describes, through a mouthful of crust, what she made for lunch.

This was 2013, before mukbang became an internationally recognized word or a Netflix curiosity. South Korean teenagers were already broadcasting live eating sessions on Afreeca, a streaming platform that lets viewers send virtual gifts—Star Balloons, worth anywhere from one to fifty euros—to performers they like. The Diva broadcast every evening between eight and nine, working through pizzas, pasta, and steaks in real time, pulling in the equivalent of a thousand euros per video. Being paid to eat. The attention economy had officially become abstract.

There’s no nudity, no sex, no performance beyond the act itself—and yet it clearly scratches something. The theory at the time was that it filled a specifically Korean social need: eating alone, in a culture that had historically treated solo dining as vaguely shameful. You put on The Diva and suddenly you’re eating with someone. The intimacy is completely synthetic and also completely real, the way parasocial things always are.

I found it strange and completely understandable in roughly equal measure. There’s something almost confessional about eating on camera—the sounds, the mess, the animal fact of a body taking in food. Photography flattens all that into aesthetics. Live streaming puts the body back in. You know it won’t fill whatever’s actually empty, but you go anyway.