Marcel Winatschek

Sneaker Season

The weather shifts in a way that’s hard to name until it’s obvious—the light changes, the air gets thinner—and suddenly you’re thinking about shoes again. New ones, always, even though you know exactly which ones you’ll end up buying. That’s the thing about sneakers. You develop a relationship with specific models the way some people do with hoodies or jeans. You own three pairs of them. You’ve owned three pairs of them for the past decade.

The Stan Smith is still there. adidas’s 1972 leather thing, barely evolved, which is exactly the point. It’s perfect because it doesn’t try. Black and white, minimal, works with everything, doesn’t embarrass you anywhere. The Superstar is the one with the aggressive stripes and the gum sole—that’s another model that’s been around so long it’s become invisible, which is the highest compliment a shoe can receive. Both are shoes that look better beat up. Both have probably been sitting in a clearance bin somewhere since you last bought them, because the people buying sneakers for fashion reasons buy different things every season.

Then there’s the Chuck Taylor, which is less a shoe and more a cultural artifact. You wore Chucks when they cost thirty dollars and everyone did, before they became a heritage brand that costs more. They still feel the same though. Thin, cheap-looking, completely impractical in actual rain, but they’re the easiest shoe to wear because they require no decisions. No technology, no branding visibility, no stories. Just a shoe.

The New Balance 580 is the one you probably don’t see people wearing much. It sits between the obvious choices—the basketball shoes, the running shoes, the status symbols—in that weird space where something is genuinely classic but not fashionable enough to be trendy. That’s where the good shoes live. Reebok’s stuff from the nineties has that same feeling: robust, a little dated, probably better engineered than anything designed in the last five years.

Vans, Puma, Lacoste, Superga—they all make versions of the same shoe, really. The high-top canvas, the leather court model, the minimalist low-top. You could draw these designs on a napkin. You probably have, at some point. The fact that they all still exist, still sell, still feel right after fifty years says something about how much fashion can change without actually changing anything fundamental.

Autumn is just the excuse to buy them again. New sole, fresh canvas, another few months before the canvas wears through the right way. The shoes don’t change. You don’t change. The weather reminds you that your closet has seasonal requirements, so you buy the same thing you always buy, and it works like it always works. That reliability, the fact that you can hand someone the same shoe model from 1972 and it still makes sense—that’s the whole thing, really.