Marcel Winatschek

Iceland Was the Wall All Along

That one episode—the one that pulled me back in after a sluggish early stretch of the season—and suddenly I wanted to be inside the show rather than watching it. Not as a character navigating Westerosi politics, which would end badly for anyone without a dragon or a surname, but in the literal sense: I wanted to stand where those scenes were filmed and see whether the place carried any of the story’s weight.

It turns out Game of Thrones was shot across a geography that looks more coherent on screen than it has any right to, given that the pieces come from Malta, Croatia, Iceland, Morocco, Spain, and Northern Ireland. The travel agency Lawrence of Morocco put together a detailed breakdown mapping fictional locations to real-world ones, and the specificity of it is quietly impressive.

The cave where Jon Snow and Ygritte have their deeply awkward but visually spectacular sex scene is Grjótagjá in Iceland—a real thermal cave, remarkable on its own without any fictional mythology attached. Everything north of the Wall, all that frozen emptiness, is the Vatnajökull glacier. The gates of King’s Landing stand outside Mdina in Malta. The Red Keep looks out over Dubrovnik. The deserts of Essos are in Morocco.

What gets me is how much the show’s visual authority depends on actual geography doing the heavy lifting. The CGI fills in dragons and scale, but the weight of the places—the stone, the cold, the quality of the light—is real. You can go there. The Wall is a glacier. King’s Landing is a Croatian coastal city where you can eat grilled fish and look up at the same fortress walls where Cersei made her calculations.

I’ve been to Dubrovnik since, and it’s impossible to look at the old city without the show overlaid on top of it. I’m not sure whether that’s the power of the series or just what happens when you spend enough hours with any fiction set in a real place. The location doesn’t stop being itself, but it carries the story now too. Westeros is Croatia plus Iceland plus Malta plus Morocco, stitched together in an editing suite, and somehow it holds.