Marcel Winatschek

The Grammar of the NMD

The NMD arrived a couple of years ago and immediately settled into the rotation in a way that most "future-forward" sneakers don’t. Part of the reason is that it isn’t really about the future—it borrows explicitly from adidas Originals’ own archive, specifically the 1984 Micro Pacer and the 1986 Rising Star. The brick-like EVA plugs on the midsole aren’t purely decorative; they’re homage. Most buyers probably don’t know this and don’t need to know it. The shoe speaks both languages simultaneously: the vocabulary of running shoes from the era when running shoes became fashion objects, and the vocabulary of contemporary streetwear.

The R2 updates the silhouette—Primeknit upper with a waxed suede heel detail, reworked BOOST midsole with revised EVA inserts that sharpen the proportions slightly. It’s the kind of iteration that people who follow sneakers closely will notice, and people who don’t will just find cleaner. More considered. Less chunky around the heel.

What I find genuinely interesting about the NMD project isn’t any individual release but the design philosophy underneath: a shoe can be nostalgic and contemporary at the same time without being retro. BOOST is real performance technology; the silhouette is archival. The synthesis is what makes it work rather than just being another archive pull. The R2 extends that argument rather than complicating it, which is exactly what a second iteration should do.