Marcel Winatschek

Everything in Tokyo Turns Pink for Two Weeks

There’s no preparation for the scale of it. Every spring, when the cherry blossoms open, Tokyo goes slightly insane in a way that’s completely organized and entirely socially sanctioned. Hanami—sitting under the trees to view the blossoms—sounds gentle enough until you see the reality: thousands of people packed onto every available patch of grass in Ueno or Shinjuku Gyoen, cracking open Asahi Super Drys at eleven in the morning, speakers playing saccharine J-pop about, yes, cherry blossoms.

The consumer machinery kicks in with breathtaking speed. Starbucks rolls out the sakura Frappuccino. Convenience stores stock sakura onigiri, sakura KitKats, sakura beer. There is, I’m fairly sure, sakura toilet paper. The blossoms last maybe two weeks and the entire country treats the window with the urgency of a limited-run collab drop—which, commercially speaking, is exactly what it is. You can’t fault the logic. The product is two weeks of real beauty and everyone wants a piece, down to the last pink-branded toothbrush.

What I love most is what it does to how people dress. The dark coats come off. In Harajuku and Shimokitazawa especially, the streets fill with color in a way that feels like a collective exhalation after winter—layered prints, platform boots, hair in shades that don’t occur in nature, all of it against a backdrop of petals. The timing isn’t coincidental. The blossoms are the permission slip, and the kids in Shibuya take it seriously every single year.